Mike McKim held an empty aluminum can under a tap and pulled the handle, filling the can with Real Ale Breweryโ€™s Helles beer. He fitted a pull tab lid on top, slotted the can into his โ€œcrowlerโ€ machine, and pushed a button. He told the storyย of the equipmentโ€™s origins, invented by Colorado-based brewery Oskar Blues.

Then the founder ofย Cuvรฉe Coffee in Austinย explained how the state of Texas took it away from him, fined him more than $30,000, kept it for months after judges told them to return it and sparked a lawsuit that cost him more than $40,000 in legal fees.

โ€œ[TABC charged us with] illegally manufacturing an illicit product,โ€ McKim said. โ€œBasically, brewing beer. Weโ€™re not brewing beer. We buy beer, put it on tap, and put it in a can. Who cares whether Iโ€™m putting it in this little Dixie cup or in a bottle or a can, what difference does it make? And thatโ€™s why we went to court.โ€

McKimโ€™s battle with the Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission officially drew to a close on Thursday, when he got his crowler machine back after more than a year of separation. The coffee bar sold its first crowler since 2015 on Friday. Andย McKimโ€™s story has inspiredย two pieces of legislation this session.

McKim prefers crowlers to growlers, the reusable glass containers commonly used by brew pubs to sell beer to go. McKim likes the disposability of the can โ€” after youโ€™re done, crush it and toss it in the recycling bin.

A sealed crowler.
A sealed crowler. Shelby Knowles for The Texas Tribune

โ€œWe can fill it entirely with two full pints, without spilling a drop, if itโ€™s done right,โ€ McKim said. โ€œWhen you fill a growler, thereโ€™s a ton of wasted beer because you stick a tube down the bottle, then you have to volcano the foam out and itโ€™s just spilling out, so thereโ€™s a ton of wasted beer. When we do this, not a drop of wasted beer.โ€

Cuvรฉeโ€™s dispute with the TABC began in July 2015, when a TABC field agent came into the bar investigating an unrelated complaint. The agent saw the crowler machine and asked what it was. After someone explained how it worked, she told them it was not allowed.

โ€œWe asked why,โ€ McKim said. โ€œShe said, โ€˜Iโ€™m not exactly sure, but I know you canโ€™t and you have 30 days to remove the equipment.โ€™โ€

McKim pursued the issue further, asking the agency what his options were. They told him he could either lobby the legislature next session, or he could wait for a citation to start legal proceedings and get an official answer on the legality of the crowler machine. McKim chose the latter.

โ€œWe needed our ticket, so we made T-shirts and had our party,โ€ McKim said.

Cuvรฉe Coffee celebrated their first anniversary in August 2015 with T-shirts depictingย a crowler machine silhouette and the slogan โ€œCome And Take Itโ€ printed on the front. The TABC came and took the machine on Sept. 29, 2015. McKim spent the next year fighting to get it back. He still stands by the decision he made to prod TABC into taking action.

โ€œIt would have never been resolved,โ€ he said. โ€œWe wanted to go to court but [couldnโ€™t] without them issuing a citation.โ€

More than a year after the TABC took the crowler machine, a judge ruled that crowlers were not prohibited by state law.

Cuvรฉe Coffeeโ€™s story became the impetus for HB 908, which allows draft beer to be sold for off-premise consumption in bothย crowlers and growlers. Its author,ย state Rep. Ramon Romero Jr., D-Fort Worth, wrote a letter to TABC Executive Director Sherry Cook early March this yearย admonishing the agency for its failure to return Cuvรฉeโ€™s machine months after a judge ordered them to do so.

โ€œTABC has so many other things to worry about,โ€ Romero said. โ€œWeโ€™ve been working with TABC to crack down on human trafficking, bars taking advantage of women, to some degree creating environments that are very dangerous for women. Weโ€™ve been working on all these things and if it was up to me, that would be what theyโ€™re focusing their attention on โ€” not small businesses trying to innovate.โ€

On Monday morning, McKim testified in support of SB 813 and told the Senate Affairs Committee he had to spendย $41,300 fighting the TABC over the crowler machine. Sen. Bryan Hughes, R-Mineola, said heย filed the bill to give individuals and businesses the ability to sue regulatory agencies for unreasonable regulatory actions. He hopes it will deter agencies from pursuing potentially frivolous regulatory actions.

โ€œIf Iโ€™m an agency and Iโ€™m messing with a Texan, there is no downside, no risk from the agencyโ€™s standpoint,โ€ Hughes said. โ€œThereโ€™s nothing keeping the agency from pursuing a frivolous action. If they lose in court and appeal like they did with Mr. McKim, thereโ€™s nothing keeping them from pulling out all the stops and punishing a business owner. The idea behind SB 813 is to even things up a bit.โ€

TABC spokesperson Chris Porter declined to comment on the specifics of the crowler case, but said both Cuvรฉe Coffee and TABC got a fair hearing.

โ€œWe’ve maintained from the beginning that anybody that disagrees with TABC has a right to due process,โ€ Porter said. โ€œWe respect the judge’s order and moved forward from there. If anyone has a crowler machine and has a permit for beer and wine sales for on-premise consumption they canย can sell crowlers.โ€

For McKim, the most frustrating part of the past year and a half was the lack of communication.

โ€œThere was no way to have a constructive dialogue,โ€ McKim said. โ€œThere was no conversation and I didnโ€™t even know who to talk to.โ€

On Friday,ย Cuvรฉe Manager Christine Clutton prepared to train the baristas whoโ€™ve never seen the crowler machine.

โ€œThis lever should be facing you,โ€ she said as she demonstrated how to set a can into the sealing machine. She walked through the same steps that McKim did earlier, placing a lid on top and wiping the can down after it was sealed. One of the baristas filmed the demonstration on her phone, getting in close whenever Clutton pointed at a button or shifted a lever.

Clutton finished the training session by wrapping the can in a sticker label, with the beerโ€™s name and alcohol content written on the side. She held it up to the phone camera, smiling. โ€œBeer!”

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Jackie Wang was an investigative reporting fellow at The Texas Tribune in the spring of 2017. She studied journalism and government at the University of Texas at Austin. She spent most of her college career...